The long cold winters of Colorado were getting to me and I wanted to find somewhere in Europe with great climbing and a beautiful coastline. My partner entertains climbing for my sake, because she loves me, but she’d rather spend the day on the beach, so we needed a place with solid compromise. I had heard whispers of winter rock climbing potential on the Island of Sardinia, Italy. Once I saw photos and videos of those crystal clear blue waters on pristine pebble beaches in the same vicinity as the rock climbing, I knew that Sardinia would be perfect for us.
We spent six weeks from the end of January 2024 to the beginning of March 2024 climbing and beaching in five locations on this dreamy Island: Baunei, Cala Gonone, Cagliari, Gergei & Gonnesa. In Cala Gonone, my friend, climbing partner and fellow Ocún athlete Kate Kelleghan joined for a couple of weeks, which opened up some multi-pitch adventure potential.
How we searched for the best climbing areas
To locate crags and climbs, we cross examined information from multiple sources which all had different kinds of information. We used a 27 crags subscription, the Pietra di Luna Guidebooks (purchased from Cagliari-- I’d recommend getting guidebooks before you travel), the Crag website, Climbing Italy website, Mountain Project app and occasionally other blogs and resources that we could find online. The 27 crags subscription was well worth it for the time out there and taking screenshots from the Climbing Italy website was also key! The maps of the trails and the layout of where the crags were in relation to each other on 27 crags was extremely helpful, as was the GPS pins to the parking areas. Regarding the specific climbs at the crags, the information wasn’t always consistent between sources, so having multiple was necessary. We’d take “full page” screen shots of the Climbing Italy site which was often more thorough than the guidebook.
We also reached out to local developer and guidebook author, Maurizio Oviglia, to ask about the quality of bolts in certain areas. He was super kind to respond and helped point us in the right direction, especially for our multi pitch adventures.
Climbing conditions and tips for Sardinia
It is important to note a few things about the climate in Sardinia. Firstly, the winter conditions seem almost ideal for a seasoned climber, hovering around the mid 50s-high 60s (13 - 20 °C). We were told that it was unseasonably warm when we were there, which means it could feel significantly chillier than a typical “summer” day of climbing and warm puffy jackets (and even puffy pants if you’re into those) are recommended for belays on the cooler days.
The other thing I learned is that Sardinia is colloquially known as “the windy island.” This article outlines the variety of winds that grace the island. The most important winds for climbers to be aware of are the mistral wind and the scirocco wind. The mistral winds bring cold air and would want to be avoided for multi pitch climbs. On the other hand, scirocco winds bring thick humidity. You can identify if there are scirocco winds by looking out onto the horizon of the sea. If you can see a clear line on the horizon between the sky and the sea, you are in the clear, but if that line is foggy, there’s a good chance those coastal cave climbs will feel like someone poured swamp water all over the holds. It’s worse than moist and not very confidence inspiring on polished limestone.
Take my word for it, avoid coastal cave climbing on these days! We didn’t think it would matter and got to experience it first hand. It was disgusting. It felt like I could slosh-fire (the opposite of a dry-fire) at any second. I will note that the climb I did on the sharp stone just outside the cave entrance was totally fine.
Due to the coastal atmosphere, bolts can become quite rusty and corroded and it is important to be aware of the condition of the bolts before getting on the climb.
TSUNAMI ECO WOMAN
Tsunami ECO Women is a women's ultralight down jacket made of recycled polyamide. It offers excellent thermal insulation thanks to high-quality down with 650 cuin+ fill and a special DWR treatment that prevents moisture penetration. Ergonomic fit with extended body and sleeves with thumbholes ensures maximum comfort when moving. The jacket is also easily collapsible into an internal pocket, which you'll appreciate when traveling and climbing.
Learn moreWhere we were in Sardinia
Baunei: The hidden gem of Sardinia
Baunei is “only” about one hour south of the most known and abundant climbing area on the Island-- Cala Gonone, but that one hour is through wild winding mountain roads, so I wouldn’t recommend the commute. If you have the time, stay in Baunei for whatever adventures you’d like to take in that area and then relocate to Cala Gonone for more abundance of climbing and beaches.
Baunei is a super cute little town tucked into the mountain side. We stayed in the most dreamy airbnb, Attico Romantico, with a balcony overlooking the pastures in the valley below. Since winter is the off-season, it was luxury at economy pricing. Due to the off season, many restaurants were closed or had limited hours. The town had two small grocery markets, but 15 minutes away in the coastal town of Santa Maria Navarrese was a larger grocery.
The majority of the climbing seemed to be in the main canyon that spanned from just outside the town entrance down to the ocean, with pull offs along the way to different areas. We climbed at Villaggio Gallico which was pretty fun! It had climbs from 5a up to 7c and everything in between.
Down at the ocean is the famous Pedra Longa, a large rock protruding from the sea. Everyone said that a multi-pitch on Pedra Longa was a must-do. It seemed like the position over the water was fantastic, but the climbing was so-so. When we first arrived, we hiked the trail above the water to a small pebble beach. The trail is part of the 45 mile “Wild Blue Trek” trail and along it, you can see massive walls looming overhead, looking like they hold epic, old school, multi-pitch adventures.
The other don’t-miss place in this neck of the woods is Cala Goloritze, a beach at the bottom of a 2.25 mile hill. Aguglia de Goloritze is a 143 meter spire of rock overlooking the beach. It looks like it’s probably fun climbing in an incredible location, but we were happy to just hang out on the beautiful beach and not have to lug our climbing gear back up the long hill at the end of the day.
While finding rock that isn’t limestone in Sardinia is rare, it’s not impossible! In Santa Maria Navarrese, the coastal town 15 minutes from Baunei, is an area called Lucertole al sole. Here you will find an aesthetic wall in a landscape that looks like it could be in Arizona, with red granite and cacti the size of hobbit houses. The climbs are bolted faces and cracks without much to climb that’s easier than solid 5.10 (6a). During the approach to this area are some other climbs including a steep pocketed pitch of 5.11d (7a) that offers an exhilarating rope swing after cleaning!
Cala Gonone: The dream of a climber´s paradise
Cala Gonone is a coastal town on the eastern side of the island, north of Baunei. There is enough climbing around here to keep you occupied for many seasons for all levels. As with most/all coastal small towns in Sardinia, this is the off-season, so most stores (including the climbing store), restaurants and services are closed and the town feels quite sleepy. There were a few small grocery stores open and they were well stocked and served all of our needs. The winter is also a time of year for construction in town, so don’t be surprised if you have a crane or two in your balcony view of the ocean.
While climbing by the ocean and on the beach is bound to bring more humid conditions, it’s well worth it for the dreamy experience.
Biddiriscottai: A beach cave with beautiful climbing routes
Biddiriscottai is a beach cave with a beautiful flat approach along the water from town. It provides fun for the whole family with a wall of approachable 5.9-10a (5c-6a) climbs on vertical terrain inside the cave feature as well as steeper more challenging pitches that traverse out of the cave headwall. You’ll definitely want a tarp for your rope as you belay directly in the sand!
Note: While wading out into the sea may seem appealing for an after-climbing dip, beware that you might step on a sea urchin if you try!
Cala Fuili: The perfect place to relax and climb
A quick 8-minute drive from town central is Cala Fuili, a lovely little white pebble beach, great for sunsets, sunrises and relaxation time. There are climbs all over this zone, starting along the stairs down to the beach. For ocean views and living that summer vibe, you can climb some fun vert pitches along the walls on the left side of the beach and if you scramble over the rocks on the right side there are some steeper, harder climbs. If you follow the canyon, past the Cala Luna trailhead, away from the beach, there are climbing zones all throughout the canyon. As in most areas we visited in Sardinia, many climbs have the name conveniently painted at the base.
Cala Luna: Beach with climbing challenges and cute cats
Cala Luna is a big, beautiful sandy beach with caves and some climbs with rusty looking bolts about 3.5 miles from Cala Fuili. If you’re lucky, the cutest, most beautiful beach cats might greet you as you approach the beach, but beware, those cats are hungry and will try and steal your lunch, so consider bringing some cat food for them! I wouldn’t recommend lugging your climbing gear here, it’s much better as a rest day beach hike. About a mile in on the trail is Ziu Santoru beach, an adorable sandy beach. Bring your headlamp if you want to brave exploring the cave systems there!
Millenium Cave: A tip for cave lovers
Some people travel to Cala Gonone just to climb in the absolutely epic Millennium Cave! From the trail down to the cave, is an adventurous via ferrata style approach following fixed lines and rebar ladders. After our first time down, we decided to harness up and lobster claw our way through the exposed terrain, which made us feel much less gripped knowing death wouldn’t be the consequence of a slip. Photos do not do this cave justice. It seemed like nature’s version of gothic architecture and I couldn’t help but think that the Sagrada de Familia must have been inspired by the Millenium Cave. Phallic Stalactites and thick tufas lined the walls and ceiling. It was here that I got to hang on and swim through a sea of my first stalactites, embracing a new kind of three dimensional climbing that paradoxically allowed for vertical resting in the most horizontal of terrain. It is absolutely incredible and even if you go down there just to see it and scream into the amphitheater or blast your favorite dance song, it’s WORTH IT!
Buchi Arta: A hidden treasure for all climbers
Buchi Arta is an area a short drive from town and while it doesn’t have coastal views or have climbs harder than 5.11d (7a), it held some of the most pure fun 5.10 and 5.11 (6a-6c) face climbs of the whole trip! For once, it didn’t feel like old school sandbagged grades. The wall was lined with flowy routes laden with positive holds and even some steeper 5.10s (6a) as well. There was lots of space at the base of the wall for charcuterie picnics and spreading out in the shade of the trees.
Multi-pitch adventures
I got to go on two multi-pitch adventures with Kate while we were in Cala Gonone. Looking through the book, it was tough to find climbs that would be in the sun, didn’t have epic approaches/ descents and had newer bolts. We ended up reaching out to Maurizio who was very kind to recommend some climbs with with updated bolts. We climbed Andare Fare non Pensare (7a+) at Monte Gutturgios which was super fun, but had some shenanigans on the rappels since the 80 meter rope wasn’t quite long enough to reach the anchors.
We also climbed L’Alchemista (6c+) at Grotta dei Colombi. I would also recommend this route as it was quite fun and had INCREDIBLE views over the bluest ocean waters. Finding the rappels to get to it was the crux. We even rappelled from an obvious looking station that had an old wooden sign next to it. After we tried rappelling and realized that it looked SKETCH, we retreated and returned to look at the deteriorating sign with the following words etched into it: “Do not rappel, not L’Alchemista.” The correct rappels were just a bit further down the cliffline.
Via Ferrata TWIST TECH ECO and CAPTUR PRO SWIVEL set
Via Ferrata set with Twist Tech Eco and Captur Pro Swivel is the ideal choice for any climber who cares about sustainability and safety. The Twist Tech Eco harness is made from recycled materials and provides comfort thanks to the padded waist and adjustable legs.
The Captur Pro Swivel shock absorber with a swivel prevents tangling of the elastic arms and is suitable for climbers weighing between 40 and 120 kg. This set combines an eco-friendly approach with maximum protection.
Learn moreCagliari a Gergei
Cagliari is the most major city on the Island with a population of 154,000 people. If you end up here, perhaps because you like cities, or need to buy a guidebook, or you need to exchange a rental car at the airport after you reached your limit on days, like us, you can pop over to Cala Fighera for some old school, steep coastal climbing, just past a popular nudist beach. This area started being developed in the 1980s and the difficulty of the grades reflected such.
We wanted to explore life inland and see what it was like. We found a cute Airbnb in the town of Gergei, surrounded by green pastures and some obscure hikes along rivers. It was just 15 minutes from the climbing area of Isili. From the photos in the book, it appeared that Isili had plenty of good routes of all grades. It wasn’t until we got there that we realized that pretty much everything in the 5.8-5.10 (5b-6a) range was only 7-12 meters long! Isili is most known for very steep, hard routes. Adam Ondra is featured in the book climbing 8c there. The steep routes made climbing in the rain possible and it was a fun change of scenery. I wouldn’t recommend going here if you don’t climb at least 5.11 (7a).
However, if you happen to be heading in this direction from the east coast there are natural thermal springs along the way that are well worth stopping at. We followed the instructions of this blog and stopped at the hot spring in Bultei, which was a small rectangular pool in the middle of a field with particular etiquette to allow for everyone to have a private experience in the pool. The Fordongianus Terme Naturali Libere hot spring flows into the river where people built up rocks to create shallow pools of different temperatures to lay down in. Both were absolutely lovely.
West Coast: Gonnesa and surroundings
For our final stop on the island, we wanted to check out the West Coast so that we could watch the sunset over the ocean. We stayed in Gonnesa, which was close to a handful of different climbing areas and near the bigger town of Iglesias. For climbing, we visited three areas. Masua was the most abundant area with a lot of vert climbing on some beautiful cliffs over the sea. There are multi-pitches over the sea there as well. I torrioni lies on the same road on the way to Masua with some spread out towers on the hillside with fun face climbing. Ombre Rosse was a random little locals crag of red limestone with no approach and some fun climbs offering a variety of styles. One of the best things we did in the area was visit the Santa Barbara cave. It has limited tours to protect the environment. The cave was accidentally discovered by a minor in 1952 and it is truly a strange and epic sight to behold.
The main climbing areas that we didn’t get a chance to visit were Ulassai which sounds abundant and the multi-pitch towers at Jurassic Park.
While the beaches on the east coast of the Island were pristine with barely any sign of trash or litter, the beaches we visited on the west coast pulled in microplastics as well as massive trash items from the sea. It definitely impacted the serene beach vibes. It ended up being too stormy to see sunsets most nights anyway. While we didn’t regret trying a new location, we missed the serene beaches and ocean sunrises of the east coast.
What else can I say?
Overall, Sardinia is an incredible place for a winter, fall or spring climbing trip. By summer, the secluded beaches that we had to ourselves, become flooded with hundreds of people (yes, even the ones with long hikes, because boats). During climbing days in the hills, a beautiful cacophony of goat bells jingle and every once in a while some stragglers may pay you a visit at the crag, give you a funny look, then scamper down the steepest parts of the hillside. The food is fresh, the waters blue and the climbing abundant. A great escape from a cold, wintery winter.